Tuesday, August 14, 2007

A Travelers Guide from VT to Nariman Pt. (Part 1)




The train screeches to a tiring halt. I get up from my fourth seat (where you just about get to place your ass) in the second class compartment, after an arduous journey and get down the train.

When I get down the train, a proud feeling runs around in my body.
The Feeling of being a Bombaiite.
With so many legs walking strong, so many hands holding bags, so many eyes on the station clock, so many hearts left at home, you sense you are a part of this army, these middle class soldiers going to their various barracks on a war everyday, moving the whole of Bombay with their strength and it really makes you proud to be one of them.

And my Spirits are revived as I go through the most endearing journey from VT Station to my office in Nariman Point.
You know why it’s endearing? Coz I see the most beautiful things in that little trip of mine.

I see the blue uniformed “polishwala” sitting barefoot gazing at each and every shoe passing by, I see the ticket collectors standing lazy performing their daily ritual, and I see some fat rich men still sitting in the first class compartment waiting for the rush to disperse. I see unconcerned policemen sitting on chairs discussing their woes. I see among the hordes of people a few nice-looking girls guarding themselves from the lecherous crowd and a few boys having dreams of corporate success in their eyes, I see the permanent residents of the station begging early morning for their breakfast; I see sunlight shimmering through the circular transparent glasses across the stations and massaging some of the fatigued empty tracks. How I love this sight!

VT station was built in 1887-88 by Frederick Williams and if I had the opportunity I would kiss his hands for constructing this magnificent medieval castle. I am certain this chap had many pets and loved hunting. I am sure he stayed once on the Baker Street and loved playing Hide and Seek, because this station is one of the biggest play boards where you see something distinct one day and the next day you find something more interesting.

Let me give you an example. When you walk towards the ticket counter and move to your right you will see glorious doors opening to the heart of Bombay. You will listen to the taxis chirping, buses grunting, cars neighing but that’s not what I really want you to concentrate on. As soon as you come out, look back at the corners of these doors.
You will see a monkey hiding under the stones, a sly fox looking at you, a peacock trying to cover herself...Ahahah…that’s not enough. Look closely. Look closely. Do you see the monkey holding a vase, the fox is amidst the grapes and the peacock is hiding behind a huge pineapple. It also made me realize this gentleman sure loved eating fruits and maybe drank from a vase.
There is another creature I still have not been able to identify, leaping at you. It’s an eerie animal winged with demonic features: with horns, tail, and talons.In fact this creature (help me name it when u see it) is leaping out from every nook and corner of this building. Initially I dint understand the purpose of these “unrecognized” creature but recently on a rainy day, I noticed water coming out from the mouths of one of them. Then it dawned on me that at its best all these creatures were gargoyles in this huge fountain of a building.

Right opposite Vt station you have a very important building like the BMC, another Ethereal structure designed in the Gothic style of Architecture. But what I would like you to see in this building are two dragons holding a shield on which is written...(Oops!that is something I missed). Personally to me these dragons signify the British Raj in India and they sure look horrible with their eyes looking fiercely at you. Lately they are being painted on account of Independence Day.
Infact Vt Station is made in the Christian style with the towers more squarish and lean (forgive me for my weak understanding of architecture) and surprisingly the BMC towers are made with Domes of a Masjid and they stand proud in front of each other.

On the BMC Building you will see our national flag fluttering and right in front there is a statue of Sir Ferozeshah Mehta, who was an inspiration for young Indians of British Era to educate themselves and inspired them to join politics. Written in bold letters you will see “1845-1905” and below it “A True Patriot” marked in English, Hindi and Gujurati.

Now turn your attention to the Capitol Theatre.You will surely not miss it. Every one acts as if they have not paid attention to the soft porn flick poster put up on this theatre but there are sure furtive glances on the cleavage of the struggling actress or on the passionate kiss shared by the onscreen duo or on the promising title like “Hawas” or “Pyaas” which tries to seduce the audience to the seats on paying a paltry sum of 25.
Just for your information there was a Capitol theatre in every major city of the world, some died out and some still functioning.

Let’s move ahead towards the bus stop and on the way, you will see the main gate of VT, on which “Madhya Railway” (Central Railway) is emblazoned. There is a Lion and a Lioness sitting proud on both sides of the gate. They look content, as if they had been fed a sumptuous meal by Mr. Frederick before being asked to sit on the top to immortality. I have noticed the mane of the lion reaching his reclining body. Every Morning I greet the couple which a slight nod of my head. I am sure they must be pleased that at least their presence is being acknowledged in this busy world.

In fact this place is the best place to view VT station and its grandeur. Right at the top you have a Lady a la statue of Liberty but prettier unaffected by the ageing city in front of it.
Below it you have three more ladies, all dressed in white. One standing in the middle and the two sitting besides her. (I need a binocular to understand what’s happening up there).

And on the VT building you have large portraits sculpted in marble of important gentlemen. One looked like the figure of “Mr. Tilak” but I am not sure if British loved him so much to have his picture engraved there.

Overall now when I see VT Station closely, it runs a creepy sensation down my spine. It disturbs me, because of the indelible print which the English have left on Bombay, on me.
They bloody came, conquered, ruled, looted us, shook hands and left leaving us some Monuments so that we can remember them.
Shit! I should hate this Station but I can’t. I like this Monument so much. With a sense of irritation I move ahead.
To Be Continued……

(This Blog is dedicated to my dear brother, Sajid Siddiqui who helped me understand the Beauty of Bombay and the common love which we share for the city.)